June 20, 2026

June 20, 2026 – Oxford, Stonehenge, and Bath

Back on the coach leaving Oxford, we crossed the River Thames just as a rowing crew glided past. It was a beautiful sight and a fitting farewell to this historic university city.

As we traveled toward Stonehenge, Michelle kept us entertained by explaining the hidden meanings behind traditional English nursery rhymes. One particularly interesting story was about Little Jack Horner. According to legend, secret messages and important documents were sometimes hidden in meat pies. Jack Horner was entrusted with delivering twelve land leases to the king’s representative. Deciding that twelve was more than enough, he “stuck in his thumb and pulled out a plum,” keeping one lease for himself and delivering only eleven. Supposedly, his family still owns that land today.

Before long, we caught our first glimpse of Stonehenge rising from the countryside.

The Stonehenge visitor facility is run like a finely tuned clock. Coaches park at the visitor center, and from there we boarded a shuttle that took us to the monument. We also downloaded the Stonehenge app, which provided information about each area as we walked around.

The stones themselves were amazing. It is almost unfathomable to think that prehistoric people began constructing this monument around 3000 BC and were able to create something aligned with the movements of the sun that still stands thousands of years later. Surrounding the stone circle is a ditch and earthwork enclosure that was used for burials and ceremonies. Over the years, some of the stones have undergone restoration, and the museum explains the fascinating process of preserving this ancient wonder.

After Stonehenge, we continued on to Bath.

Bath is a lively and beautiful city filled with Roman and Georgian history. We are staying at the Hotel Indigo, right in the heart of the city and within walking distance of the main attractions.

Our first stop was The Pump Room for High Tea. It was Steve’s and my first experience with a traditional English afternoon tea. We began with smoked salmon, beet salad, and ham hock appetizers. Then the famous tiered stand arrived. The bottom tier held crustless sandwiches filled with ham, chopped salmon, egg salad, and cucumber. The middle tier featured warm scones, leading to the great debate—do you put the clotted cream on first or the jam? The top tier was filled with delicate pastries, chocolates, cakes, and fruit preserves. Everything was delicious, and a string orchestra provided beautiful music throughout the meal.

After tea, we walked next door to the Roman Baths Museum. The baths were fed by natural hot springs and were an important center of daily life during Roman times. Since homes did not have running water, people came to bathe, socialize, worship, and seek the healing powers of the mineral-rich waters. When the Romans arrived in Britain in 43 AD, they harnessed the hot springs and built an impressive bath complex. They also constructed a temple dedicated to the goddess Sulis Minerva, combining local Celtic and Roman beliefs. It is remarkable how much of the site still survives today.

We returned to the hotel to recharge our phones and check in before meeting Jeff and Susie for a cocktail along the River Avon at Opa. As we were leaving, we spotted two hot-air balloons drifting across the evening sky. It seemed especially fitting because this weekend is Balloon Festival weekend back home in Quechee Vt.

Since we had enjoyed such a large and late lunch, we opted for a light dinner of appetizers at The Architect. We sat outside on the terrace, taking in the sights and sounds of a beautiful summer evening in Bath.